All It Takes Is A Split Second!

A split second earlier I was pumped, muscles firing with a hard as fins free snap top turn. ‘What! My front foot skids off my board. Not enough wax! The lip of the wave pummels me, slamming my head with a sickening crack into my board. I’m gone, lights out! Maia, seeing my body half submerged floating upside down in the ocean is desperate to reach me, paddling inhumanly fast, straining every nerve, screaming, ‘Help! Help!’ over and over…