Surfing has been a major part of my life since I was about 12 years old. There are many different aspects to surfing that I love and none of them have anything to do with the surf competitions that the general public might watch.
For me, it is the connection with the ocean, the sense of gratitude from being immersed in such a beautiful environment, the freedom of expression where your mind, body and spirit are interacting with each amazing wave of energy pulsing through the ocean and providing an experience that is both beyond exhilaration and incredibly intimate.
How good you are depends on your natural abilities, how much training you do to be surf fit, and how often you can surf. But what really matters is how much you love it, how much it means to you, and no one knows that – other than yourself.
The photo in this blog is that of my daughter who has been surfing waves since she was about 5 years old. I am really happy to see more and more girls and young women getting into surfing, some of whom, like my daughter have reached a very high level of proficiency and are a joy to watch.
But, as I said above, what is fantastic about surfing is the depth of feeling, that sense of connection to nature’s incredible energy, and the “being in the moment” that happens as you are connected with the wave.